![]() I appreciate the advice of those that are way more experienced than I, regardless if it comes across as being a dick to some. As a beginner, i think it is easy to get caught up in the latest/"greatest" thing that are portrayed as the "easy" way to go. That is a great, efficient way to clean an anchor!! I totally understand learning to use the gear that one would typically always have and not rely on specialty pieces. Thanks for the tips/suggestions! Also, thanks for the link. Or just buy all the stuff and don't give a shit what dicks like me think when we see you at the crag.ĭon'tchuffonme wrote: Franco is right on all counts. Then figure out the gear you already have that can accomplish the same task, and you'll be more versatile and won't have to spend the extra $$ to get "specialty" pieces of gear that accomplish that same task. Learn these "dedicated" pieces of gear and their usage. I get made fun of when I break out the ole PAS for easy multi-pitch, and rightly so.įranco has solid advice. But I'm pretty much saying what most experienced climbers think. I can't climb 5.14 (or even 5.13, for that matter) and I should just keep my weak mouth shut until I'm strong enough to have an opinion. Just about every jacked up thing I've seen outside has been from someone that has one, two, or all three of those. If I see someone adorned in a PAS, girth hitched cleaning slings, chalk bag on a carabiner hanging off the gear loop, etc. That doesn't bother some people, and that's fine. ![]() Otherwise you end up with a bunch of shit you don't need dangling off you and looking like a permagumby. to do things that otherwise the gear manufacturers tell you is the latest greatest thing that you MUST have. It's good to learn how to use gear that you already likely have on you- slings, draws, locking biners, etc. Then the only difference between that and the ole gumby loop thingy is that one is about 3 or 4 times the cost of the other.Īs far as cleaning sport routes, well, if you can't figure out how to use a quickdraw and one extra locker (instead of attaching two giant loops of nylon or dyneema to your harness that can get caught on shit, or using a PAS) to lower off and clean, then here's a link: SKIP TO 3:22 to see cleaning with just locker and draw. So, if that's the case, then you have yet another single-use piece of gear dedicated for a task. I personally wouldn't use a knotted sling for extending anything, though it's probably fine. ![]() To me, if you knot a sling and you wear that as your default anchor attachment/rappel extension, then you're probably not going to use it for much else. Should it be? Debatable, and depends on whether or not you like knotting and unknotting slings. Can that be accomplished with one nylon sling with a knot in it? Sure. ![]() I wear it sometimes when I'm doing multi-pitch routes because as you say Brad, it is handy to be able to clip into an anchor and be able to rig your rappel. I also cringe when I see someone with two separate 4' slings girth hitched into their tie-in points just to clean sport routes. I'm not super old school, but I cringe when I see someone try to pull a cam off their gear loop and it gets stuck in a PAS. Climbers should be self sufficient and dedicated pieces of gear that exist only for one purpose or two at most are bad ideas. To expound on what Franco said, a PAS is completely unnecessary. Not BECAUSE of the PAS mind you, but the type of people that go out and spend 30+ dollars on something a single nylon sling can do usually aren't the most experienced. Here's why most experienced climbers hate the PAS: Usually when something idiotic happens at a crag, it's done by someone using a PAS.
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